These weeks I’ve been playing around with disappearing patches. It started with just a few fabrics (later I added a few more), cutting out squares (9.5 “ inch) and sewing them together into four-patches (9 inch).
As you can see, I’m not too concerned about the exact measurements. The sewing is more important to be exact. Next step is to cut in straight lines, an inch from the center.
Then the opposite cornerpieces are switched, and the centerpiece is rotated twice.
Then all is sewn together into a new block, which is of course an inch smaller than the original. (7.5 inch after squaring)
In the first picture you could see how this works when four of these blocks are sewn together. Bold, straight lines, strips and squares. I can imaging this becoming a large quilt.
This is colored with random Tula Pink fabrics.
If you make the same Fourpatch with only 2 colors, you can get a block like this (swap not opposite corners, but the center pieces). In a complete quilt this will look like this:
Hello, welcome to a new Washcloth Wednesday. This time I have a 2-colour pattern for you. At least, I made it with 2 colours, but you can make it with as many colours you like; because of the texture of the pattern, even a solid cloth would be great.
Round 1: dc into 4th stitch from hook, dc into next st, *skip 2 stitches, ch2, dc into next 2 stitches* , repeat * * until end
Round 2 and all even rounds: ch2 (= 1st hdc), hdc into same stitch, * skip 2 stitches, ch2, dc into both skipped stitches 2 rounds below *, repeat * * until end, ch2, hdc into last st
Round 3 and all odd rounds: (new colour), ch2, * dc into both skipped stitches 2 rounds below, ch2, skip 2 stitches *, repeat * * until end, dc into last skipped stitches, hdc into last stitch.
Repeat round 2 and 3 until desired height.
Final round: ch2(= 1st hdc), hdc into same stitch, * hdc into both dc, dc into both skipped stitches 2 rounds below*, repeat * * until end, hdc into last 3 stitches.
Next week I will skip Washcloth Wednesday, because I’m going away for a few days on a trip to a wonderful city. It is a very photogenic place, so I’m planning on making lots of pictures to show and tell.
Hello! Time to give you the second part of the tutorial for the Criss-Cross Pillow (first part can be found here). Today I want to show you how to make the top into a wonderful pillow.
First thing to do, is quilt the top. For the lining you can use any piece of fabric, although cotton would be best. Because I like my pillow covers washable, I used a washable batting.
Quilt any way you like, free motion, straight lines, particular motives, in the ditch; anything is possible.
For this pillow I used a heavy linen fabric for the back, but this is again just as you prefer. Cut your fabric a little bit higher than your top, and about 8 inches wider. Make a seam at both ends, and cut it with one piece exactly have the width of the pillow. This is going to be on top.
On this side you can make buttonholes, or as I did, loops made of bias tape
Now put both top and back on top of each other (right sides out!), and stitch.
As you can see, I’ve zigzagged the seam. I like to do this, because then it is easier to attach the binding. It isn’t necessary though, and if you do, it doesn’t have to be too neat.
Next step is the binding. Cut strips of 2¾ inch, with a straight grain, and fold double.
Sew your binding on, with the open side along the seam of the pillow. You work on the right side of the pillow. Stitch with a seam allowance of ¼ inch. Stop ¼ inch before the end. Fold the binding straight up,
and fold it down, along the seamline.
Stitch, starting at the beginning.
This way you make all 4 corners. Close your binding and fold it to the back. Handstitch it.
The corners are nice and tidy.
Next step is the closure on the back. Of course you can use colourful buttons from your stash, but I always like to make my own fabric covered buttons.
Sew your buttons on and all what’s left is to insert a pillow!
When you make patchwork, no matter if it is for large projects like quilts, or for smaller ones like pillows, you always have leftover pieces of fabric, which seem too small to use and too large to throw away.
A few years ago I already made a pillow like this as a swap-gift, so with my boxes of scraps getting a bit too full, I decided to make a new one. And because it is such fun, I made a little tutorial for you.
This is what I used: lots of scraps in different colours and sizes, and an old white pillowcase. This white fabric had a few stains and soft spots, but it was large enough to cut around them.
With the rotary cutter cut strips of 3/4 inch wide. The strips have to be cut with a straight grain, because they are going to hold the shape of the pillow.
As you can see, some are quite small, and some are large. That is perfect, as long as you keep a few long ones to use at the end.
Then, just start sewing the scraps to the strips; it doesn’t matter what side you use, or what size the scraps have.
Iron the seams in the way you prefer; this time I ironed them to one side.
If you have an idea about the finished size of your pillow, you can go on making pieces like this, until you have the size covered.
The next step is to sew the pieces together. It is important to make sure the coloured pieces are always sewn together with a strip in between. Especially on the sides of the pieces this can be tricky.
I made seam allowances of 1/4 inch.
This way you make a lot of blocks, which become larger and larger as you sew them together.
When the blocks become larger, you start ‘looking’ for long lines, to finish the top.
And there you have it; a finished top:
Next time I’ll show how to make this top into a pillow.
First an excuse: it’s been far too long since my previous post, and I never meant for that to happen. In the meantime quite a lot of people became new followers, THANK YOU!
Over the past year I’ve received quite a few questions about the Fair Isle scarf/cowl I finished a year ago.
Most people wanted to know if there was a pattern, and what colours I’ve used.
I can’t provide a pattern, because I’ve used a really wonderful book
In this book you can find charts for an incredible amount of patterns, from very simple 1 and 2-row patterns
to allover patterns
Making the scarf:
Yarn used: Stahlsche Wolle Limbo Superwash Needle: US 4 – 3.5 mm
To make the scarf very colourful, but coherent I need to tell you something about the use of colours. I used only 4 colours, (blue, green, yellow and pink), and every colour in 3 shades; light, medium and dark, and a little bit of off-white. This way there were lots of options to vary: different shades of 1 colour, contrasting, a combination of both.
The other thing I did, was the transition between patterns. After knitting a pattern, 3 round of background colour (BC) were knitted, then 1 round of the new BC, 1 round of the previous BC, 3 rounds of the new BC, then the new pattern.
Cast on 120 stitches, join in the round, place a stitchmarker and knit 3 rounds.
Now you can choose any of the patterns in the book, or any other pattern you like. You have 120 stitches, which can be devided by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 24, 40 and 60. So keeping this in mind it is the easiest to choose a pattern with a pattern-stitch-count of one of these; then you only have to repeat until the end.
If you choose a pattern with a stitch count of 7, you will have 1 stitch left in the end, but this will become the ‘fold’ in the scarf, so no problem, just knit it in the background colour.
As you can see in the picture above, I’ve used both very small patterns of only 2 or 3 rounds, but also larger ones, up to 31 rounds.
This way, I’ve knitted a scarf of 165 cm (65 Inches).
After the last pattern, I’ve knitted 3 rounds BC, 1 round of first BC, 1 round of last BC. Then to make a (infinity) cowl, bottom and top were joined using a kitchener stitch.
Hopefully these notes can help to make your own scarf/cowl.
This week is the last week of May, and during the day temperatures around 18 degrees are normal. This week we had temperatures around 11 degrees, and especially in the morning it was almost freezing. So for the first walks with Fleur I wrapped my winter scarf around my neck. I so long for Spring!! In the meantime the Lilac in front of the window I’m sitting next to is blooming so beautiful and the sky is blue (between the clouds that is).
Because I ran out of yarn for my hexagon blanket, I had to think of something else, and I have a lot of leftovers from Drops Delight, in all kinds of colours.
For a long time I had an idea about using little squares. That’s all I’m going to tell for now. I hope to show you more next week.
But something which had been bothering me for a long time was how to finish a crochet round neatly, if you have to change colour. I’ve seen lots of tutorials and video’s on YouTube, but nothing really appealed to me. Until now. I’ll show how it is done:
First you crochet your round (or square) until the last stitch:
Now you cut the yarn and pull the tail through the last loop:
Thread your needle and make a stitch in the top of the first dc:
Pull yarn through, and make a stitch in the back loop of the last stitch:
Now you have a perfectly closed round.
That’s it for now. The next thing I’m going to look for is a way of attaching yarn in a nice way; I’m not so fond of the chain stitches to start a round with. If I ever find something, I’ll let you know.
After telling you about my new blanket last week, I received a few questions about how to make the large circles and squares. So here is a tutorial about them and about how to make them into a blanket.
You start the same way as for a small circle and crochet 3 rounds as described here.
Round 4: ch 3, dc into joining stitch, dc into next 2 st, *2dc in next st, dc into next 2 st* , repeat until end, join with a sl st into 3rd of initial 3ch.
Round 5: ch 3, dc into joining stitch, dc into next 3 st, *2dc in next st, dc into next 3 st*, repeat until end, join with a sl st into 3rd of initial 3ch.
Round 6: ch 3, dc into joining stitch, dc into next 4 st, *2dc in next st, dc into next 4 st*, repeat until end, join with a sl st into 3rd of initial 3ch.
Round 7: ch 3, dc into joining stitch, dc into next 5 st, *2dc in next st, dc into next 5 st*, repeat until end, join with a sl st into 3rd of initial 3ch (84st)
Now before I go on, I’ll explain first the dbtr stitch:
dbtr = double treble crochet = 3 yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), *yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops*, repeat 3 times.
Now you can make your circle into a square.
Join yarn in any stitch, and chain 1 (counts as first sc).
sc into next 3 st, hdc in next 2 st, dc in next 2 st, tr in next 2 st, (dbtr, ch, dbtr) in next st.
*2tr, 2dc, 2hdc, 8sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 2tr, (dbtr, ch, dbtr)*, repeat 2 times,
2tr, 2dc, 2hdc, 4sc, join in first chain.
Final round: ch3, dc into joining st, dc into next 9 st, (2dc, 1tr, ch, 1tr, 2dc) into corner stitch, *dc into next 21 st, (2dc, 1tr, ch, 1tr, 2dc) into corner stitch*, repeat twice, dc into next 10 st, join in top of initial 3ch.
When I made my blanket, I sewed 5 small squares on to the large ones, and put them on the floor. I didn’t want to have the large squares in nice rows, so I tried a few layouts, made a picture, and sew the squares together.
For the small circles I used 3 shades of the same colour, for the large circles, I used 4 shades: the first 3 I used 2 rounds, and the last shade only 1 round.
All squares were sewed through the back loops of the final round.
After all the sewing, I crocheted 2 rounds for a border; 1 round of sc, and 1 round of dc.
Edit: For this blanket I used ‘Drops Safran’; 15 skeins of white, and all colours available except black, and brown- and grey tones. The weight of the blanket is just over 1200 grams.
Hello ladies! Thank you for joining me today. On my last post I received a question about the pattern I used for the circles. I’m sure it must already be out there somewhere, but I don’t know where. So I decided to make a little tutorial myself.
Abbreviations: st = stitch ch = chain = yarn over, pull yarn through stitch on needle sl st = slip stitch = insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull yarn through both loops on hook sc = single crochet = insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull yarn through both loops hdc = half double crochet = yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull yarn through all 3 loops dc = double crochet = yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops, yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops tr = treble crochet = 2yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), *yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops*, repeat * * twice
Circle: Start with a ‘sliding loop’ or ‘magical loop’:
Wrap the yarn around 1 or 2 fingers like in the picture, with your hook you pull up the yarn, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc)
11dc into ring and then you pull the beginning tail
Join with a sl st into the 3rd of initial 3 ch. (12 dc into ring)
ch3 (= 1st dc), 1dc into joining st
2dc into next st, repeat until end, join with sl st into 3rd of initial 3ch (24 st)
ch3, 1dc into joining st, 1dc into next st, *2dc into next st, 1 dc into next st*, repeat until end. Join with sl st into 3rd of initial 3ch. Break of yarn. (36 st)
Now your circle is finished. If you want to make it larger, you can go on in the same way: *2dc into st, 1dc into next 2 st*, repeat *2dc into st, 1dc into next 3 st*, repeat etc.
To make your circle into a square you join yarn in any stitch and ch1 (counts as 1st sc)
sc into next 2 stitches, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1tr into next st, ch1
*1tr into same st, 1dc into next st, 1 hdc into next st, 1 sc into next 4 st, 1hdc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1tr into next st, ch 1*
repeat * * twice, 1tr into same st, 1dc into next st, 1 hdc into next st, 1sc into last st, join with sl st into 1st ch
ch3, 1dc into joining st, 1dc into next 4 st, 2dc into corner space, ch 1
*2dc into same corner space, 1dc into next 9 st, 2dc into corner space, ch1 * repeat * * twice, 2dc into corner space, 1 dc into next 3 st, join with sl st into 3rd of initial 3ch.
That’s it!! Written down it always looks very complicated and a lot of work, but it really isn’t.
Of course you don’t have to make the circle out of one colour; a different colour for each round is very nice too:
Hello and thank you very much for the nice comments on my last post. Making these tops is so nice, that it inspired me to make another one. This time I’m not using a geometrical pattern, but circles.
As you can see, I already made quite a few of them!
Because it took me a long time, before I knew how to make perfect circles to applique, I ‘ll show you how I do it.
First you make a template out of cardboard, in the size you want your circle. Do this very meticulous.
Then you grab a piece of fabric, and as you can see in the picture, if your circle isn’t too big, the piece can be rather small! This is exactly why I keep almost all scraps in a box; they just might come in hand one day.
Now with a chalk pencil you draw the circle on to your fabric scrap. Then cut it out with a small seam allowance.
With sewing thread, make stitches around, and make sure your first and last stitch overlap.
As you can see, both ends of the thread are on the right side of the fabric!
Now you put in your template, and pull the threads.
Tie the knot and that’s it!!
Before sewing the circle on to my fabric, I only press it. I will leave the template in, until I actually applique, just to be sure nothing will happen to the shape.
A few weeks ago, I received this beautiful charm pack from the lovely Monica.
I really don’t know why, but these colours said “Kimono” to me. I’m always fascinated by the beautiful colours, fabrics and embroidery on Japanese Kimono’s. With these fabrics I thought I could make blocks with a bit contemporary kind of kimono.
So I started with drawing a square of 5 inches.
1/4 inch down of the top I drew another line, and 11/4 inch from both the left and the right side.
Then 11/2 inch down of the second line, I drew two lines for the sleeves.
The basic shape of the kimono is now ready. I decided that you would see the kimono on the back, but that the front panels should be seen too.
So from the bottom corners I marked a point at 1 inch. And from there lines were drawn to the opposite corners.
Holding the ruler along these lines, you can draw the collar.
And there you have it; a basic pattern for a kimono-block.
Because I wanted to use a few more fabrics per block, I thought it would be nice to make two kimono’s, overlapping each other.